Teddy Bear Picnic

Katy and I ventured out to Smith without a plan. For me, thats like going on a road trip without gas money. But, on this particular overcast day, since we didn't have a plan we decided to jump on a three pitch sport route that we had both wanted to do, but hadn't remembered or though about for a while. It's called "Teddy Bear Picnic" 5.10b/c. It's located on the massive Picnic Lunch Wall inside Smith Rock State Park. It's one of only a handful of routes on this wall because of the lack of solid rock. This route is the exception!

Ok, ok... 5.10b/c.... whopt-dee-doo.... but this three pitch climb really packs a punch. I've not yet felt exposure at Smith Rocks as I did on this climb. This climbing was sustained, long, and airy. The wind was blowing (which always seems to make exposure on a wall seem so much worse) and the air was cool. Coming from Las Vegas temps, I felt as though I was climbing in Siberia.

The first pitch was decent... sustained 5.10b knob pulling with some interesting moves. Katy led it fantastically well and with grace. I followed up behind, feeling somewhat less impressive. I was wearing my bigger "comfy" shoes, which make edging on small holds harder. I also forgot my chalk-bag at the climbing gym, which isn't detrimental but is somewhat inconvenient.

I led the second and third pitches, combining both of them into one long pitch. The third pitch is the MONEY pitch, putting you 250 feet off the deck on the very corner of a huge arete (a narrow spine of rock) From this position, I had to slap to micro-crimps and small pockets with minimal feet. The pitch was bolted, but not the kind of bolting that one wants to fall on. Any fall would have been at least 20 feet.

Rapping off, we both agreed that it wasn't the best route in the park, but it was one to write about! I highly recommend it. Bring plenty of draws to link the 2nd and 3rd pitches, and you only need to rappel twice to reach the ground.